seeking & creating : researching & discovering : applying & practicing

sustainability in design = changing mindsets + deeds

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Julian Roberts: Subtraction Cutting

Absolutely amazing stuff!!! 

Julian Roberts is the inventor of a garment pattern cutting method called 'Subtraction Cutting', which he demonstrates live in front of large audiences in many different countries, teaching people of all ages and levels of expertise how to construct creative clothing.

‘Subtraction Cutting’ is an approach to garment pattern making that incorporates chance discovery, distance, gods-eye views, and the ability to cut fast & inaccurately without too much reference to numbers, fractions or mathematics.

Pattern cutting and design are physical activities, they extend from the hand and eye, from rotations of the wrist, elbow & shoulder, but they also flow from the mind and its perception of spatial awareness, from the psychological processes of transferring ideas & concepts into 2 Dimentional patterns, which then construct in 3D.

The basic premise of Subtraction Cutting is that the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative spaces within the garment that make them hollow. Simply put, shaped holes cut from huge sheets of cloth through which the body moves.

Subtraction Cutting is DESIGNING WITH PATTERNS, rather than creating patterns for designs.

When you explore new techniques and methods of making, you deal with chance, luck & hope.

Sometimes you completely mess up; sometimes the mistakes are really much better than what you were hoping for; and sometimes you discover something about cloth you didn’t realize was possible.

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